Adjusted Cut Drop Explained

ADJUSTED CUT DROP

When cutting and joining PLAIN fabric drops, you cut the drops to the length of the fabric cut drop, align and join. It is not as simple with PATTERNED fabric.

With a patterned fabric we adjust (increase) the FABRIC CUT DROP so the pattern starts and finishes at the same position on the fabric. The cut drops are then identical* when cut from the roll and the pattern aligns when drops are placed alongside each other for joining. This is called an ADJUSTED CUT DROP.

ADJUSTED CUT DROP - DEFINITION

An Adjusted Cut Drop is the Fabric Cut Drop length rounded up to a whole number of pattern repeats. So the cut drop is now a whole number of pattern repeats.

WHAT IS A PATTERN REPEAT?

We are talking about the vertical pattern repeat here not the horizontal pattern repeat. The vertical pattern repeat is the distance measured down the fabric before the pattern repeats itself. It is usually stated by the fabric supplier. You can also measure it on the fabric.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF PATTERNED FABRIC

There are generally 2 types of patterned fabric. Standard pattern repeat and half drop pattern repeat (very rarely you may find a third drop pattern repeat fabric). To explain Adjusted Cut Drops we are dealing with the most common type of patterned fabric, which is standard pattern repeat fabric. That is a patterned fabric where if you were to cut 2 identical pieces of fabric and lay them side by side, the pattern would match at the join. With a half drop pattern repeat fabric one piece would need to be shifted half a pattern repeat down for the pattern to match at the join. You will find more information on how to deal with half drop pattern repeats HERE

DO I NEED MORE FABRIC WHEN USING A PATTERNED FABRIC?

Usually yes you do. As explained above you need to increase the fabric cut drop to a whole number of pattern repeats. Which generally increases the length of the cut drops, increasing the amount of fabric required compared to plain fabric. We usually add a pattern repeat into the total qty to place the pattern as well.

HOW TO CALCULATE ADJUSTED CUT DROPS

To calculate the Adjusted Cut Drop:

Divide the Fabric Cut Drop by the vertical Pattern Repeat
Round the result up to the nearest whole number (NPR)
Multiply the whole number by the vertical Pattern Repeat
You now have the Adjusted Cut Drop as a distance (ACD) and a number of pattern repeats (NPR)

DETAILED EXAMPLE

First thing you need to do is find out what the vertical pattern repeat is and there are a couple of ways to do this.

Check with the fabric supplier when you buy the fabric.
Measure it yourself. Look at the pattern and you will see how it repeats down the length. Find a point on the fabric that is remarkable and look down to see where the same remarkable feature is next seen. Measure between these 2 points and this is your Pattern Repeat (PR).

Now work out the FABRIC CUT DROP required as if you were using PLAIN fabric.

This is the point where we need to factor on the pattern repeat by rounding up the FABRIC CUT DROP to a whole number of pattern repeats to create the ADJUSTED CUT DROP. For this example we will use a Pattern Repeat (PR) of 32 cm

Our calculation shows the plain fabric cut drop is 7.65 pattern repeats long. As explained we cannot cut in the middle of a pattern repeat so we have to adjust the drop (round it up the next full pattern repeat). The adjusted cut drop is 8 PR (=256cm)

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