What an amazing website. Can't thank you enough for the advice. I'm a relatively seasoned curtain maker, but haven't attempted roman blinds before. With your calculator and detailed instructions my finished blind is perfect and I am absolutely thrilled with the results.
Thank you so much.
Your tutorials are great. Thank you.
With regards to Roman Blind calculations, if you are trying to reach a fold depth of 15cm but you cannot get to that figure (e.g you end up with a figure such as 13.07), should you round up or down to get to a whole number?
Just adjust the headrail allowance figure and you should be able to get your desired fold depth.
Hi I am making six cascade roman blinds, to go under existing hard pelmets, the length of the pelmet is 24cm, do I have to allow this in my calculations, or do I just calculate as normal, my blind is 180 drop.
The pelmet will fit over the blind, so you need to design/calculate the folds of the blind to fit with how you want them to sit in respect to the pelmet when the blind is up.
What size screw eyes would you recommend for a 152cm wide blind (5 cords). I'm trying to order online but can't make sense of the sizes so got them miles too small.
As long as the cords fit through - that’s what matters.
Hi, I'm making 2 roman blinds and 1 pair of curtains which will go in the same room on adjacent walls. Should I place the pole for the curtains at the same height as the top of the roman blinds and therefore have the top of the fabric on the curtains hanging lower than the top of the fabric for the romans (still keeping the pattern in line) or should I have all the fabric at the same height which means the curtain pole would be higher than the top of the romans. What would you do ? many thanks Caroline
There are lots of factors when deciding what to do. There are no rules ,
we just try to work out what we think will look best, which we couldn't
do unless we were in the room and got a feel for it.
Factors to consider.
Are the window heights the same?
How much room do you have above each window to the ceiling?
We normally place a blind 10cm above the recess (for an outside the recess blind), We normally but poles half way between the recess and the ceiling (where recess to ceiling is about 30cm).
We would look to get the top of the curtain in line with the top of the blinds (ie pole slightly higher) and if possible the vertical pattern on the blinds and curtains the same height around the room. But not at the expense of placing the pole or blind at an odd height.
I am making a roman blind for my rustic Spanish property. It is a large window 6ft by 6ft. Adjacent to it I have a single paned door - the pane to cover is 2ft x 5ft. Does a Roman blind work on a door or do you have any other suggestion.
Secondly, as the window gets a good deal of intense sunlight what would you recommend as a lining fabric.
You can put blinds over doors but consider the following.
Where do you intend to fix the roman blind?
Will your door be able to open and close without hitting the mechanism?
Will a blind when up restrict head height when you walk through the door?
Will it comply with child safety regulations?
We use 100% cotton and blackout linings and have had no trouble with sunlight damage. But that is in the UK, we dont have experience with the Spanish sun.
Hi, I am attempting to make roman blinds following this site. I have been warned that roman blinds on a big sash window with a 160 drop will block out a lot of light when pulled up. Is this something I should worry about?!
We've made blinds in that size window before and the customer was happy.
I suppose it depends on your preferences. You can always have more rod
pockets and a smaller top section when pulled up. Look at our online
calculator to see what kind of top section depth you can get. Then
decide if that is blocking out too much light for you.
On some windows you can mount the blind outside the recess so it starts higher up and blocks out less light as well. As usual these are design decisions you need to make at the start and be happy they will look right for the window.
When you have worked out what size your blind will be when pulled up you can always hang a panel that size up at the window and see if you will be happy with it.
I want to make roman blinds for my kitchen, outside the window recess. The drop is 100cm I and wonder how high I can reasonably site the blinds above the window to give me maximum light, (there is only 23cm between the top of the window recess and the coving). I noted in one of the responses that I could insert more rods to make the folds smaller and if I did so, how many would you suggest?
I am making two blinds for the kitchen. Small window 120cm blind drop and 75cm width which includes 7cm each side parallel to the sill. However, the larger window has a problem as the right side is adjacent to cupboards (at a right angle) leaving only 3cm from window recess to the cupboard. I was going to overlap the window by 2.5 cm on the right and 7cm (to match small window) on left and still centring the pattern on the blind. But will this look odd? Should I do 2.5cm on both sides. Hope I've made myself clear and you can help.
We would go for 2.5cm on each side and keep it balanced. (personal choice)
I am making a blind measuring 63.5 cm wide and 89.5 cm drop,,do I need to take off 1 cm off these two measurements for better fitting
I feel the blind will rub on the sides and the bottom hem will touch the sill making it dirty, please advise
We would make the blind to these measurements provided they are the
shortest width and drop in the window recess. 1cm less would create too
much of a gap for us. Sometimes if the window is not square you will
have to reduce the width measurement to make sure it doesn't rub on the
I have two blinds to make, both on the same wall but with a cupboard between them. One window is larger than the other by just a few cms. Do I make both blinds the same size as the larger one, or do I make the blinds to fit the windows relevant to their sizes? The curtain drop is the same, the width is different by 1 1/2 cms. There is room for the smaller window to be made up to the same width as the larger window but I want to be sure what is the best way to approach this.
If the blinds are in the recess we would make them to fit the recess. If
they are outside the recess you do have the option to make them both
the same size. It really comes down to a design decision, there is no
right or wrong answer. You just need to look at the situation and
think/decide what will look best.
Hi, I have pelmets on my windows which are wider than the window so I am not sure whither to make my blinds the width of the window or the width of the pelmet. The pelmets are about 6inch wider either side of the window. Thanks Mary
There is no standard answer for this it is a design decision. We made
one the other day where the blind was made to the width of the sill and
extended the pelmet out 4cm either side of the blind.
As we live in an old house the walls around our window s are not even and in fact are wider at the bottom than the top and the recess is very deep. I want the roman blind to block out as much light as possible but think I will have to narrow the blind at the bottom as otherwise it will not fold up properly. I intend to have a roller blind behind it next to the window pane to block out light. Is my solution for the roman blind right?
The Roman blind is a rectangle with straight sides. When fitting inside a
recess that varies in width it has to be made to the narrowest width
otherwise it gets stuck on the sides when it is pulled up and down. That
does mean it will not totally cover the wider areas of the recess. Your
other option may be to make a blind that is outside the recess.
We have patio doors 270cm wide by 210cm drop I am undecided whether to attempt 2 roman blinds do you think they would work with wooden batons?
We would use mechanisms for child safety reasons.
Hi. I am making a blind to hang from a track with winding mechanism outside the recess. The track is 125cm wide (recess is 115cm so will have 5cm overlap each side) should the finished width of the blind be th exact width of the track or should the finished width be wider than the track if so by how much? Thank you
We would make the blind 1cm wider than the track. All explained in STEP 10.
Help! I want to make a pair of roman shades for my patio door but wasn't sure how to make it look right. I could hardly do it inside the recess because its hardly recessed at all and not sure where I would attach the batten on. If I do it on the outside of the frame how would that look with a split in the centre and how close would you put the two shades? Or maybe this is not feasible on a patio door? Thank-you
If there is nowhere to fix in the recess on the wall/frame or recess ceiling you have to go outside the recess.
As for what would look right with the blinds hanging alongside each other or slightly that is a personal design decision you have to make based on what you think looks right for the doors/room.
If you are making blinds for a door you need to consider
If the door opens inwards under the blind you will need to make sure the blind is high enough and clear of the top of the door when pulled up.
If the door is opening outwards you will need to consider you don't knock your head into the blind when it is pulled up walking through the doorway.
Hi, I am making a blind to hang out side the recess and I want it to sit just on the top window architrave when the blind is pulled up. How much should I allow for this? Thanks.
I assume you are talking about the top of the blind being just on top of
the architrave not the bottom. Basically there are no allowances you
just need to work out what you think will look best and sometimes where
you can get a strong fixing. There are many variables eg the window
size, its position, distance from the ceiling, the relation to other
windows in the room etc. Look at the window, how far the top is from the
ceiling, what the depth of the blind in the up position will be and
judge what position will look best. For example we fixed an outside the
recess blind the other day and positioned its height inline with the
curtain pole on windows nearby in the room (in other rooms that may not
look right). Sometimes positioning the blind high you can use the depth
of the blind when pulled up to make the window look higher and minimise
the amount of light being blocked out when the blind is pulled up. You
also have the option to vary the depth of the blind in the up position as
well as the position you fix it in. I'm afraid we don't use any magic
formulas for us it just comes down to using your eye and making a
You say make blind the same width as the INSIDE of the window, surely you should leave some sort of space as the edges would RUB whilst going up and down!!
We go for the width of the window recess rather than reduce the blind further for the following reasons.
That said of course you can always reduce the width of your blind a bit if you are worried about it catching. It is a good point and I will add a note to the instructions accordingly.
Hi, I'm making a roman blind for a bay window (so I'll make 2 smaller blinds for the sides and a large blind for the middle.) I'm using a fairly thick material. The middle blind measures 175cm wide and 155cm drop. I'm not sure which baton/mechanism to use that's best for a big blind. Please can you advise.
A wooden batten would probably work. But we would go for a geared mechanism.
Hi, I have previously asked you for advice and I am back again with more queries as I want to make sure I make the best decision before I start. I have a large square bay, the front window is 286cms, made up of 4 panes, the returns are 90cms. I am using a patterned fabric (repeat of 39cms). The window ledge is 26cms deep and we have a pelmet above which extends slightly over the window ledges. I am making 2 blinds for the large front window and would have to add panels to both blinds which I don't relish as, from your advice you suggested narrowing the centre piece and adding 2 pieces of 8cms either side. I noted somewhere that you say in this situation you make the blinds so that they meet exactly in the corner, ie no overlap either way. Because I have deep window ledges, If I set the blinds in ie towards the front edge of the window ledge, I would have enough with one width for the two front window blinds. By doing it this way, I realise that the blinds don't cover across the whole window although will always meet wherever they are set to hang, and if accurate should hopefully look fine from both inside and outside. Do you think this could work? My other concern is that if the blinds are set in this way, the chains on both the blinds on the front window would be hanging in mid air. We have plastic windows so I wouldn't want to drill into the frame for the 'keep' for the chain. Do you know if there is an alternative 'keep' that perhaps sticks to plastic frames? I hope you understand this and look forward to your valuable advice.
Thank you. Julie
We would not worry about the joins in the fabric - look at our mini
tutorial with a free video on this site for more info on joining
patterned fabric. As we said before we always make blinds with balanced
joins as we think those look more professional.
We would concentrate on getting the blinds in the best position and not compromise that position trying to avoid making joins. We would fit the battens first and get them in the right position before measuring to get the size and positioning right.
With regard to dangling chains, due to child safety legislation in the UK we would have to fit chain safety restraints (P clips) which we would have to drill into the UPVC window which we do not recommend.
Is there a maximum width for a Roman blind please?
The longest rods and bars you can buy are usually 3m in length. For wide
blinds like that you need geared mechanisms as they are heavy to pull
up. If you are a beginner, the bigger the blind the more difficult it
is to get it true and square.
i have tilt n turn windows and made roman blinds for them, howver i used velcro stuck one bit on window abnd sewed the other to the blind, it keeps peeling away at the top. Not happy withit. Any suggestions . No room to attach it to the selling and dont want to make holes in the plastic window. Please help.
We dont stick velcro to the window. The hook velcro would either be
attached to a wooden batten or a chain cassette mechanism. When
attaching the velcro to a wooden batten we cover the batten then stick and staple it on. We then attach the batten or mechanism to the window or ceiling/wall.
Like you, we do not drill into plastic window frames and don't recommend it. However some people do and I have seen this advice given.
"Don't use self tappers as they usually come loose. The screw you need is called qa CSR which has a drill like tip to it and makes its own hole. It also tightens into the hole and is virtually impossible to pull out unless you over screw it with a high power drill. Use a low torque setting and a slow speed"
Ultimately if there is nowhere to fix the blind, the window is not suitable for a blind.
Hi, I want to make a blind for my lounge which is 153cm x 153 cm, which is wider than the width of the material by just a few cm's. Should I add the additional width to the side or would the blind look better if I made the two joined parts the same width? I'm worried that a small addition to the side wouldn't look right. Thanks for your help.
Go to STEP 6 of the tutorial and it shows you how we suggest making up the wider fabric panel by balancing it with 2 strips (one on each side). There is also some extra info in the EXTRA HELP section at the bottom where we answered a siimlar question, with a photo of a blind we made with 8cm strips added to each side.
Hi, I am putting my Roman blinds on the recess of the window, how far or near to the window do I put the rail? Hope to hear from you soon Sheila
All windows are different and the blinds positioning is a design
decision that can be goverened to a certain extent on where you can get a
fixing to hold the blind rail /batten in place. inside the recess we
put the blind up close to the top to allow as much light in as possible
when it is up and have it close to the window making sure it will not
catch on handles etc when moving up or down.
Also consider If the blind is going to restrict the opening of a window when up, then a blind inside the recess may not be the solution for the window.
I am measuring up for a recessed blind and the narrowest part of the window recess is 88cm and goes as wide as 90cm. I want to fit a cassette mechanism blind and not sure if an 80cm one will be ok and whether I can just have a slight overhang of the material & fit the cassette to the ceiling/wall. Or would I be better off fitting a wooden batton one instead
The blind can be no wider than the narrowest part of the recess or else
it will catch on the way up and down. For your 88cm wide blind a 4cm
overlap at each end of an 80cm rail would be far too much. We would buy
the wider rail and cut it down.
Is there a maximum depth for Roman blinds. My window is 85cm x 210 cms. Thanks
The longer they are the bulkiier they are when pulled up and as they get
heavier you may need a geared mechanism to pull them up. I've them
over 30ft long in hotels, but I suspect they were on a much stronger
pull up mechanism than normal.
A lined roman blind your size should be ok, depending on the weight of your fabric you may need a geared mechanism, the blurb about the blind rail usually says what weight it is good for.
I will have to join my material width 140cm, actual blind required 143cm width x 131cm drop. I understand you have larger middle panel and small side panels. Typically what ratio of measurement would you recommend for each panel? Thank you
With a patterned fabric you will have to join to the pattern at the
selvedges. With a plain there are no hard or fast rules. STEP 6 of this
lined roman blind tutorial in the extra help section has an image of a
143cm wide blind we made with an 8cm strip each side, to give you an
idea of what that might look like.
Making a blind 190cm wide. Can I use a head rail and cord system or do I need a geared chain system?
The wider the blind the less likely it is to work with a batten due to
its weight. We would use a Geared headrail mechanism on that width. Due
to child safety legislation we now make all our blinds with headrails
rather than battens as we have not found a reliable cord breakout system
for the traditional batten.
I'm planning on making Roman blinds for large patio doors approx full width of 410 cm and length of 224 cm.
I bought a Corded Roman Blind Kit 210 cm wide. The fabric I've bought is 100% cotton. I've got a few questions which I hope you can help me with:
1) would you recommend me using 2 x 210 cm Corded Roman Blind Kits for this or would you suggest I make more than 2 blinds?
2) do you think a Corded Roman Blind kit would handle the length I need for the Roman blind?
3) would you recommend I line the material?
I'll send a photo of the window and the Roman blind kit.
Thanks in advance,
1) Looking at your window we would go for curtains. if you want to make
blinds we would fit them outside the recess to avoid hitting your head
on them as you walk through the patio door, As for the number of blinds
that is really down to your design taste. The more blinds the more
chains you'll have hanging down. In the UK, due to child safety regs we
would probably be restricted to 2 blinds as there would be no where to
attach the chain for any middle blinds.
2) We have no idea if that kit will work, for blinds that size we would be using a geared mechanisim to make sure they can pull the weight up.
3) We line all our blinds unless its a sheer or we are going for a see through linen look.
I am about to measure up for a Roman blind and am wondering how high above the window to site the baton. I want the finished blind to block out as little light as possible when drawn up. Any tips?
There is no exact answer. Generally we position the top of the batten
10cm above the recess and calculate an appropriate depth of the blind
when pulled up.
However depending on the room, window size etc you may want to vary that.
Other things to consider are, the distance from the top of the window to the ceiling, whether you need the blind top to be the same height as others in the room, what the options are for the depth of your blind is when pulled up.
I would like to make a blind with a width of 248 cm x 115 cm drop. I know that is a very wide blind but I think it would look better than 2. Do you think it would work OK using the traditional wooden head rail and batons. The fabric is not heavy and I would use a cotton lining.
I have made quite a few Roman blinds but none this wide and would appreciate your advice.
We have made them that wide with a batten before and it worked. However
it does require a strong fixing and runs the risk of not being able to
pull up easily due to it's weight. Nowadays due to chid safety
legislation in the UK we would use a compliant mechanism. This would
also have the benefit of being geared so it will cope with the weight of
I want to make a roman blind that fits inside the window recess. However the top of the window recess is not square and the drop is 5cm longer on one side than the other. Is there a way of adjusting the top of the blind or would I be better placing the blind on the outside of the recess. I would also like to know what dimension bar I should use for the bottom of the blind. Thanks
The rods and bars we use are shown in STEP 9.
As a beginner we would advise going outside the recess. However we have made them inside the recess for windows like this.
You will need to fix the blind rail horizontally and pack above with more velcro fixing. Then shape the top of the blind using buckram and wide velcro so you can still attach the blind to the headrail. (I'm afraid how to do this is beyond the scope of this tutorial)
This is how it would look, personally we think it is better to come outside the recess or pick a different window treatment with a wonky window, as blinds are a very straight precise look and when you make them to an irregular shape your eye is drawn to the irregularity of the window.
However in this instance the customer really wanted them in the recess, as ever there is no right or wrong answer it is down to personal taste.
Would you consider a 3 inch overlap on each side of the window recess to be too much for a roman blind? This measurement fits better with the pattern than a 2 inch overlap which seems to be the recommended amount. The window is 85 cm wide which means the overall width of the blind would be 100cm with a 7.5 cm overlap on each side.
There are no hard rules, all windows and fabrics are different. The size
of overlap you are thinking of sounds fine, it all comes down to
design decisions and if it looks better with the pattern it is probably
the better size.
I have tall Georgian sash Windows with wooden shutters . However the shutters are not full length and do not cover the top 1/4 of the window.
I'd like to fit blinds therefore , ideally inside the recess and shutters .
Could you advise on the minimum depth of the recess in order to fit the blind mechanism ? Would you also recommend roller or Roman blinds ?
If you are face mounting (not ceiling), using a mechanism, the front of
the roman blind will protrude approx 55mm from the face. It may well be
more as the folds stack up under.
As for recommending roller or roman blinds, we cant say. That is a design decision based on the windows, room, shutters etc.
Firstly, thank you for a wonderful webpage. My window is overall 110" long by 60" deep. The window is made up of 5 parts and is in oblong leaded lights, so lines abound. My fabric is plain. I need to have 2 drops to cover the width of window but cannot decide where it should go. I Wanted to do a drop of 2/5s and a drop of 3/5s so the join is where one of the window breaks is but 3/5s is wider than the fabric. If I do them both the same width, the join is in the middle of the middle section glass. Any ideas? I shall definitely purchase your video but I firstly need to know in what way I must cut the fabric. Many thanks from very confused Dawn
This is a design decision so no right answer.
Generally we would look at balancing the binds so they are symetrical, but would not split across a window. So would probably look at 5 singles, one 3 panel in centre a single either side or 1 large blind.
We cant really say what we would do without looking at the window, the room and the context.
I a making a Roman blind which will go outside the window frame. I want it to expose as much if the window as possible and want it to start 30cm above the actual window . How do I go about working out the pleat sizes. The depth of blind including the 30cm above frame is 1m40
This is all covered in the next step of the tutorial. (STEP 2). There is also a Roman blind pleat calculator on the site as well
I'm making 3 Roman blinds for a bay window (rectangle shaped Bay).
I've made the big cental blind, but now I need to make the 2 smaller ones for the side. But, do I need to take anything off the width measurements so that when they are pulled up, they hang next to each other ok?
We try to butt them up with each other in the corners (rather than one
straight across the back that overlaps the 2 side blinds). Generally we
go for a 1cm gap and the blinds slightly wider than the rails that way
we can jig their position to get a nice fit.
It is easier to fit the rails/battens first then measure.
I would like to make a roman blinds for my square bay window. I would prefer to hang them outside the recess of the window but I do not have enough space in-between to have the recommended 5cm. Is it possible to have less?
Yes, sometimes you have to work with what you've got. There are no hard and fast rules.
Would a 2.4m wide window be too big to make roman blinds for? It's also 1.2m high.
You can make Roman blinds that big, However big blinds are hard to make
well and we tend not to make big Roman blinds as we think they are more
suited to smaller windows.
hi I am making a wide blind and the fabric is quite soft would you use an iron on fusible to help prevent sagging
We do not fuse anyhting to the fabric in the workshop. Using blackout as an interliner helps the blind keep it's shape.
My sister in law wants me to make two blinds 162 cm wide and the other 182 cm wide. I have only made smaller ones before and presume I will have to join the fabric to make it wide enough unless I can get hold of extra wide fabric. Do you have any advice on making these before I agree!!! Thank you, Liz
With standard width fabric you will need to join the fabric. It is
easier to use double width lining if you have it (no joining and the
rods don’t catch on the lining joins in the rod pockets). Inserting
blackout between the face fabric and lining can give the Blind more
stability and help prevent sagging.
I am confused as to how high the batten should be above the window. Example: if you have one 9m tall window and another 1.5m, how could the distance be the same for the batten? I am trying to measure so that when the blinds are open, it does not cut any light out. Is there a rule for this please?
There are no rules, you make a judgement and put it where you think it
will look right. Some windows have very little space above to the
ceiling others will have a large expanse. In the video with a pretty
standard window we go for half way. (we generally place it 15-20cm above
the window) but never so high that the pulled up blind will be above
To make it in line you will have to place the batten above the window where it will give you the depth you want when pulled up, Measure the drop down from that point, then calculate the pleats so it is that depth when pulled up.
Do you really want to make a 9m long roman blind?
The finished width of my blind to hang on the outside of the recess will be 407cm Is this too wide for one blind. I thought about hanging 3 separate blinds each measuring 135cm. Which would work best
We would not make a blind over 4m wide. In our opinion it will not look
good, it will be difficult to make well and we are not even sure you can
get headrails over 4m long. It you try and make it with a wooden
batten, you will have problems with cord friction trying to pull it up
due to the weight and number of cords.