This website is viewed globally and at the last time of looking had been used by people from 136 different countries.
The instructions and videos on this website show you the traditional methods of making a roman blind. Many countries have introduced safety regulations with respect to child safety, to reduce the threat of injury or strangulation to young children from the cords of roman blinds.
It is your responsibilty to find out what the regulations are for your country and modify these instructions to make your blind compliant with those regulations
Examples of safety advice and rules used by some countries of the world are:
Do not place furniture or beds near windows where children can climb up and access the blind cords.
For roman blinds with rod pockets greater than 20cms apart at any point a
breakaway device must be used on each cord.
The cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the
cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.
The bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a
safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain
can be 60cms from the floor.
Some countries require that all the blind's components have been tested and certified when used together.
This website is viewed globally and at the last time of looking had been used by people from 136 different countries.
The instructions and videos on this website show you the traditional methods of making a roman blind. Many countries have introduced safety regulations with respect to child safety, to reduce the threat of injury or strangulation to young children from the cords of roman blinds.
It is your responsibilty to find out what the regulations are for your country and modify these instructions to make your blind compliant with those regulations
Examples of safety advice and rules used by some countries of the world are:
Do not place furniture or beds near windows where children can climb up and access the blind cords.
For roman blinds with rod pockets greater than 20cms apart at any point a
breakaway device must be used on each cord.
The cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the
cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.
The bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a
safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain
can be 60cms from the floor.
Some countries require that all the blind's components have been tested and certified when used together.
Is there a reason that you use Velcro at the top rather than just stapling the fabric to the top batten?
SewHelpful:
Everyone makes roman blinds differently. We no longer use batons in the professional workshop due to EU regs on child blind safety so always use a mechanism - the blind cannot be stapled to it.
There is no reason why you can’t staple to the baton though if you prefer - you will need to make it longer and staple it to the top of the baton. We do not do this as feel it does not give a professional finish and makes batons difficult to attach particularly if fitted within the recess.
Thank you so much for this excellent tutorial. I can't believe how good my blind is looking. I am currently stitching the velcro by hand as shown in the last tutorial but its hard going on my fingers. I'm using a self threading needle size 9. Can I ask what needle you use or would recommend?
SewHelpful:
Are you watching the videos? We don't stitch through the velcro, we stitch to the fabric just below it. As for the needle it's personal preference but we like using long darning needle. Size 5 or size 7
I am using your very helpful instructions to make three Roman blinds for a bay window. I would ask you to clarify 'stab stitches' I assume this attaches the blind material to the lining at the rod pockets and goes through all layers. I just want to check that I have it right! Many thanks
SewHelpful:
Yes the stab stitch goes all the way through to the face fabric
but you try to make it show as little as possible. The video shows you
in detail how to stitch it and how little of the stitch you want to
show.
I have bought your video and found it great for making my first blind, I couldn't do your rod pickets as I had thermal lining so made my own little pockets out of a different lining and stitched them on, I didn't get them quite as straight as I wanted to and my top rod pocket is about 5ml wider than the rest, I have tried to correct it as best as possible. When I come to stitch on my rings should I put them where the rod pocket should be on the top rod pocket or keep it 5ml out ? Also is 3 strings ok for a 117cm width blind ?
SewHelpful:
At the moment there are instructions written in red in the tutorial that
tell you how to make the blind with rod pocket tape rather than
traditional integral pockets. (They drop down if you click on them).
You
attach the tape with one line of stitching NOT 2 lines, as the blind
is pulled up on the stitch line of the pocket. With rod pocket tape you
would usually have canvas loops in it for attaching breakout rings or
threading the cord. With your homemade tape attach the rings/breakouts
as we do in the tutorial.
As for things being 5mm out and
adjusting the ring position, we would remake to make sure it is not 5mm
out and everything is consistent rather than start moving things around.
( so have no experience of that to offer- but it sounds like it might
work).
As as for the number of cords, this is covered in STEP 8
(stab stitching & attaching rings). We recommend the number of
rings/cords there and their spacing. If you are using a Blind kit
mechanism, use the number of cords provided and space accordingly (as in
many countries now they have breakouts and each cord will only be able
to pull so much weight before breaking away.)
1. I'm assuming the Velcro tape is machined onto face fabric only, and not thru to lining?
2. My blind is 57cm wide....not sure whether to do 2 or 3 cord drops?
Loving the instructions, many thanks!
SewHelpful:
You could probably get away with 2 cord drops on a traditional blind,
but if you have a chain headrail go for the number of drops it was
supplied with as it will probably have breakouts and each cord will only
be able to take so much weight.
All the stitching and construction is shown in great detail in the videos.
am now ready to put in stab stitches and rings. The blind is 114 cm wide. If I follow your instructions I will have a ring at 10cm from edge, either side, then 2 more in between and 31.3cm apart. That means I will end up with 4 strings to hold the blind up. Is that ok or a bit excessive? Thanks for your help
SewHelpful:
That is the number we recommend and would use, especially if you have
break outs that can only take so much tension on each cord. Most 120cm
blind kits come with 4 cords. (with a mechanism we would use the number
of cords supplied with it.)
Of course you can make it with less
if you like, but the blinds are stiffer to pull up if you put too much
weight on a cord. It will depend on the weight of your fabric/blind
friction of the cords/eyelets you use etc.
when you attach the rings do you attach just to the rod pocket? or how do you do this? I understand the stab stitches in between the rings but confused as to how to attach rings and stab stitch at same time (with rod pocket in the way)
SewHelpful:
You Stab stitch first, insert the rods then sew the rings onto the rod
pockets after. All the stitches are demonstrated in detail in the
videos.
As a more or less complete beginner, I find these instructions informative, clear and easy to follow. The only thing I wish you'd show is how you handle blinds that are too big for your table. I'm using the floor but finding it all very painful on my back!
SewHelpful:
In the early days we bought a board and covered it with lining and put
it on top of the dining room table to give us enough surface to work
with at a more comfortable height. (I appreciate that is not possible
for everyone)
Thank you for your invaluable, detailed tutorial. I have used rod pocket tape so do I lift the tape up to put my stab stitches underneath the tape or do I put the stab stitches above the tape please?
SewHelpful:
We stitch through the tape on the stitch line you attached the rod
pocket to the lining. This is the point the cords will be pulling on the
blind as it is pulled up.
I have nearly finished making my lined blind. I have used rod pocket tape but this is only stitched on to the lining. Should this row of stitching holding it on go right through to the front fabric? The kit has little clips for the cord so these don't even go through any fabric.
SewHelpful:
With our method we dont stitch through to the face fabric with the rod
pockets. We stab stitch the layers together, which is the last job on
this page of the tutorial.
I have been following your videos making a lined blind with rod pockets. I have purchased a metal mechanism rail with which has 5 cord drops. My blind is 128cm long, spacing out the rings would make stab stitches req for rings at 10, 37, 64, 91 and 118 cm. This leaves 27cm gaps, would you add stab stitches in between - at 13.5 cm intervals which is less than you minimum, but if I don't the gaps will be greater than your maximum gap.
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
SewHelpful:
Yes always stab stitch more rather than less, we would stab stitch inbetween the rings.
I am using rod pocket tape, could you tell me do I stab stitch above, below or underneath the rod pocket tape? Also should I stab stitch every 10cm across as I don't need to use rings?
Finally, should I stab stitch along the fold line? Great videos and instructions, blind looking good so far. Many thanks
SewHelpful:
Stab stitch on the stitch line in the places specified in the
instructions. As you are not sewing on rings, stab stitch at the points
where there would have been rings.
Hello......I have made many roman blinds and like using your instructions and calculators.
One problem I always seem to have is that the velcro always seems to pull the top of the blind in so that the blind ends up a few mm narrower at the top....any ideas?
Thanks for tip of walking foot, hunted mine out having never used it and it's awesome, also for sewing rod pockets, used to find these stretched out of shape before. Thanks so much!
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Questions & Comments
Hello there
Can I use fusible buckram or does it need to be non-fusible? thanks
We use non-fusible, you could use fusible and not press it (fuse it).
Is there a reason that you use Velcro at the top rather than just stapling the fabric to the top batten?
Thank you so much for this excellent tutorial. I can't believe how good my blind is looking. I am currently stitching the velcro by hand as shown in the last tutorial but its hard going on my fingers. I'm using a self threading needle size 9. Can I ask what needle you use or would recommend?
Are you watching the videos? We don't stitch through the velcro, we stitch to the fabric just below it. As for the needle it's personal preference but we like using long darning needle. Size 5 or size 7
Ive been following your instructions -blind looking great so far!
Please can you tell me do the stab stitches go through both the lining and the fabric ?
Many thanks
Yes they do to hold the blind together. The video fully explains and demonstrates how to stab stitch the blind.
I am using your very helpful instructions to make three Roman blinds for a bay window. I would ask you to clarify 'stab stitches' I assume this attaches the blind material to the lining at the rod pockets and goes through all layers. I just want to check that I have it right! Many thanks
Yes the stab stitch goes all the way through to the face fabric but you try to make it show as little as possible. The video shows you in detail how to stitch it and how little of the stitch you want to show.
I have bought your video and found it great for making my first blind, I couldn't do your rod pickets as I had thermal lining so made my own little pockets out of a different lining and stitched them on, I didn't get them quite as straight as I wanted to and my top rod pocket is about 5ml wider than the rest, I have tried to correct it as best as possible. When I come to stitch on my rings should I put them where the rod pocket should be on the top rod pocket or keep it 5ml out ? Also is 3 strings ok for a 117cm width blind ?
At the moment there are instructions written in red in the tutorial that tell you how to make the blind with rod pocket tape rather than traditional integral pockets. (They drop down if you click on them).
You attach the tape with one line of stitching NOT 2 lines, as the blind is pulled up on the stitch line of the pocket. With rod pocket tape you would usually have canvas loops in it for attaching breakout rings or threading the cord. With your homemade tape attach the rings/breakouts as we do in the tutorial.
As for things being 5mm out and adjusting the ring position, we would remake to make sure it is not 5mm out and everything is consistent rather than start moving things around. ( so have no experience of that to offer- but it sounds like it might work).
As as for the number of cords, this is covered in STEP 8 (stab stitching & attaching rings). We recommend the number of rings/cords there and their spacing. If you are using a Blind kit mechanism, use the number of cords provided and space accordingly (as in many countries now they have breakouts and each cord will only be able to pull so much weight before breaking away.)
Hi....2 queries please!
1. I'm assuming the Velcro tape is machined onto face fabric only, and not thru to lining?
2. My blind is 57cm wide....not sure whether to do 2 or 3 cord drops?
Loving the instructions, many thanks!
You could probably get away with 2 cord drops on a traditional blind, but if you have a chain headrail go for the number of drops it was supplied with as it will probably have breakouts and each cord will only be able to take so much weight.
All the stitching and construction is shown in great detail in the videos.
When slip stitching the heading to the blind, should the stiches go all the way through to the front of the fabric or just stitched to the lining?
Thank you
Full details of the construction method and stitches are shown in detail in the videos.
am now ready to put in stab stitches and rings. The blind is 114 cm wide. If I follow your instructions I will have a ring at 10cm from edge, either side, then 2 more in between and 31.3cm apart. That means I will end up with 4 strings to hold the blind up. Is that ok or a bit excessive? Thanks for your help
That is the number we recommend and would use, especially if you have break outs that can only take so much tension on each cord. Most 120cm blind kits come with 4 cords. (with a mechanism we would use the number of cords supplied with it.)
Of course you can make it with less if you like, but the blinds are stiffer to pull up if you put too much weight on a cord. It will depend on the weight of your fabric/blind friction of the cords/eyelets you use etc.
Hi -
when you attach the rings do you attach just to the rod pocket? or how do you do this? I understand the stab stitches in between the rings but confused as to how to attach rings and stab stitch at same time (with rod pocket in the way)
You Stab stitch first, insert the rods then sew the rings onto the rod pockets after. All the stitches are demonstrated in detail in the videos.
As a more or less complete beginner, I find these instructions informative, clear and easy to follow. The only thing I wish you'd show is how you handle blinds that are too big for your table. I'm using the floor but finding it all very painful on my back!
In the early days we bought a board and covered it with lining and put it on top of the dining room table to give us enough surface to work with at a more comfortable height. (I appreciate that is not possible for everyone)
Thank you for your invaluable, detailed tutorial. I have used rod pocket tape so do I lift the tape up to put my stab stitches underneath the tape or do I put the stab stitches above the tape please?
We stitch through the tape on the stitch line you attached the rod pocket to the lining. This is the point the cords will be pulling on the blind as it is pulled up.
Will i get the best by stab stitching with my material flat on the table or hanging the material of a frame
We stab stitch on the table, all details are in the videos.
Hi
I have nearly finished making my lined blind. I have used rod pocket tape but this is only stitched on to the lining. Should this row of stitching holding it on go right through to the front fabric? The kit has little clips for the cord so these don't even go through any fabric.
With our method we dont stitch through to the face fabric with the rod pockets. We stab stitch the layers together, which is the last job on this page of the tutorial.
Hi
I have been following your videos making a lined blind with rod pockets. I have purchased a metal mechanism rail with which has 5 cord drops. My blind is 128cm long, spacing out the rings would make stab stitches req for rings at 10, 37, 64, 91 and 118 cm. This leaves 27cm gaps, would you add stab stitches in between - at 13.5 cm intervals which is less than you minimum, but if I don't the gaps will be greater than your maximum gap.
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Yes always stab stitch more rather than less, we would stab stitch inbetween the rings.
Hi
I am using rod pocket tape, could you tell me do I stab stitch above, below or underneath the rod pocket tape? Also should I stab stitch every 10cm across as I don't need to use rings?
Finally, should I stab stitch along the fold line? Great videos and instructions, blind looking good so far. Many thanks
Stab stitch on the stitch line in the places specified in the instructions. As you are not sewing on rings, stab stitch at the points where there would have been rings.
Hi
Great tutorial! Found it most helpful as I have never made a roman blind before. Just one query, do I I need to stab stitch underneath the heading.?
Many thanks.
No
Hello......I have made many roman blinds and like using your instructions and calculators.
One problem I always seem to have is that the velcro always seems to pull the top of the blind in so that the blind ends up a few mm narrower at the top....any ideas?
Walking foot on the machine will help with that.
Thanks for tip of walking foot, hunted mine out having never used it and it's awesome, also for sewing rod pockets, used to find these stretched out of shape before. Thanks so much!